shiny silks at Paris menswear shows
The perennial standoff between cutting edge designers who keep pushing men to get in touch with their feminine side and throw open their wardrobes to the skirt and reluctant male consumers worldwide flared up again on Thursday in Paris, with a man skirt and man dress heavy collection from Rick Owens and silky, shiny offerings from Dries Van Noten.
The City of Light’s five day long menswear displays powered replica designer handbags into day two on Thursday, after kicking off with a whimper a day earlier. Disgraced ex Dior designer John Galliano’s daylong Paris trial on racism and anti Semitism charges which capped a saga that has riveted the fashion world since it broke in March and he was high quality replica handbags china fired from the house of Dior threw a pall over Wednesday’s shows, Discount Replica Louis Vuitton Bags mostly from smaller name labels.
But by Thursday, Paris had its mojo back. There was former Dunhill designer’s African infused debut as head of men’s style at luxury luggage maker Louis Vuitton and an inside out show at Gaultier, where half naked male models stripping to their boxers distracted from the clothes themselves.
Celebrated Belgian magpie van aaa replica designer handbags Noten dipped the bitter pill of femininity in a thick coating of sportswear to make it go down easier, whereas Owens “whose hallmark somber aesthetic belies his sunny Californian origins” didn’t bother sugar coating the ladylike looks and served up skirts layered upon skirts and floor length man dresses.
Though several parties were competing for the A list attendees, the second annual Paris amfAR dinner appeared to have sealed the deal, scoring Fergie of the Black Eyed Peas “wearing a black Vuitton ensemble so tight it literally hobbled her” Dutch design duo Viktor Rolf and Miami Heat star Dwayne Wade. An auction at the gala, with lots including a crocodile wrapped bottle of Piper Heidsieck Champagne, raised tens Fake Louis Vuitton Replica Bags of thousands of dollars (euros) for the Foundation for AIDS Research.
Paris menswear reaches the halfway point on Friday with shows by Paris luxury houses Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy and the much anticipated first menswear show by John Galliano’s signature label since he was fired from the brand. The studio designed the collection, and the fashion world was holding its breath to see whether it will mimic Galliano’s hallmark looks or veer replica louis vuitton bags into uncharted territory.
Catering to the fabulous lifestyles of the rich and famous has always been at the heart of the mission of the Paris based luxury supernova and it remained so replica designer handbags , despite a change of designers at the head of its menswear studio.
For his debut collection at Vuitton the new men’s style director Kim Jones delivered a globe trotting collection of slick, jet set staples electrified by African touches that looked like they’d been plucked out of a Kinshasa market. High waisted trousers and razor cut jackets in navy pinstripes were paired with button down shirts in what looked like African wax print fabric in eye popping colors.
The collection “is about someone who, from America and England, picks up and leaves and goes slightly native,” Jones, formerly of British heritage house Dunhill, said in a backstage interview with The Associated Press. “When you’re really rich you can do that kind of thing.”
Asked about the hardest part of his transition to Vuitton where he replaced the outgoing head of the menswear studio, Paul Helbers, in March, Jones said it was the seemingly limitless possibilities that come with Vuitton’s deep pockets.
“There’s so much freedom here,” said Jones. “Everything is possible at Vuitton, so it’s more about deciding what not to do.”
British born Jones said he had looked to his own childhood in Botswana and Ethiopia for the collection, which also includes sensible, hike ready sandals and a plethora of shorts, including abbreviated tuxedo models. There was also a nod to the Boy Scouts in the khaki short suits, topped off by red and blue checkered scarves.
While the tough economy has pushed many Designer Louis Vuitton Replica Handbags other designers from the realm of the edgy and into the consensual, Owens continues to cater to the margins with a collection dominated by what’s possibly menswear’s hardest sell, the man skirt.
The raven haired, perma tanned designer served them up in long and short iterations, layering miniskirt over miniskirt over leggings, or pairing razor cut blazers with ankle length skirts with bold slits up the back.
“I’m not going to sell tons of them,” Owens acknowledged in a post show interview. “But if there’s anyone on the planet that can sell skirts to men, it’s me.
“It’s a niche, but I like the niche fake designer bags ,” he said.
Besides the skirts, the collection shown in a stadium in eastern Paris that was plunged into darkness for 1:1 replica handbags the occasion was dominated by floor length tank dresses in nubby blacks, charcoal grays and khakis. With their long, elegant lines, the dresses evoked hermits wandering the desert sands.
“I like the idea of promoting dignity and wisdom,” said Owens, adding that for him, the man dress with its airs of Ancient Greece and philosophers and monks embodies both.
It’s a fair guess that many, many men might disagree with Owens on that one. But watching his models, who looked willowy and ravishing in their dresses, those present at Thursday’s show couldn’t help but agree.
Gaultier stripped fashion in every sense of the word, peeling off the industry’s glossy exterior to reveal its less than glamorous inner workings and stripping the models to their boxer shorts. In theory, the display was meant to be something like the moment in Wizard of Oz when the curtain is pulled aside to reveal the hidden machinations.
But the problem with taking that approach for a fashion show, at least from the designer’s perspective, is that the clothes have to fight for the audience’s attention with models in various states fake louis bag of cheap louis vuitton bags from china uk undress a battle the clothes nearly always lose.
Such was the case at Gaultier, where a small army of dressers and makeup artists and stylists prepared the models on two story scaffolding set up at the top of what’s usually the runway.
A disembodied voice read out a description of each look old school haute couture style as the models alighted from the scaffolding and ambled around the showroom. They paused in front of tables specially reserved for buyers, who reached out to fake designer bags feel the fabrics eye popping Hawaiian prints, houndstooths and sailor striped knits and jotted their orders down on special forms.
Product number tags dangled from the backs of the jackets and tuxedo trousers and from head to toe plaid suits topped off with matching plaid trench coats. Standout pieces included a trompe l’oeil jumpsuit that cleverly imitated a three piece suit in robin’s egg blue and another pantsuit in fabric printed with the Paris street signs for the rue Saint Martin replica louis vuitton bags , where Gaultier has his headquarters.
Overall, it was a novel approach, but it had a clinical, forced feel to it lacking Gaultier’s trademark joie de vivre.
Dries Van Noten knows the surest way to reach a man’s softer side swathe femininity in sportswear.
The Belgian critical darling served up sports staples like tennis shirts, crewneck sweaters and hunting parkas in fabrics usually more associated with ballgowns, like silk and taffeta.
“Men are always like, ‘This might be too much for me, all that shiny material, can I wear that? Is it masculine enough for me?'” van Noten told Associated Press Television News in a pre show interview. “So when you refer to sportswear then automatically, they’re more open.”
Shown in a Paris parking garage, the collection hit the sweet spot between the two genders. Leather paneling toned down the shine on the slick parkas, and sporty striped sweaters added a rough edge to the slim pants in the finest of silks.